Sesame-Ginger Asparagus Salad
Sesame-Ginger Asparagus Salad with Asian inspired ingredients. Topped with sesame seeds and sliced almonds.
Recent Posts
Adaptive Digging Tools for Gardening
This page contains Affiliate links. Please see my full Disclosure here. Don’t let issues like weak grip or arthritis in your hands, back or knees keep you from enjoying gardening. There are a number of adapted tools available. Some have ergonomic designs that allow for …
Gifts for the Urban Gardener
This post contains Affiliate products. Please see my Disclaimer here for more information.
Looking for gift ideas for a gardener growing on an apartment balcony or other small space? Here are some ideas for products they may find useful.
Grow Bags
Grow bags are a great alternative to heavy terra cotta pots. These flexible containers come in a variety of shapes and sizes to meet just about any space requirements. Grow bags flatten for easy storage when not in use. The bags themselves are lightweight and usually have handles for moving or lifting.
Although some grow bags are made from plastic, these tend to get brittle and only last a season. The better option is to get fabric bags from a non-woven man-made fiber, similar to landscape fabric.
Fabric grow bags allow the plant roots breath and promotes air pruning of the roots which prevent the roots circling in the bottom of the pot. The fabric containers also provide good drainage and can help prevent root rot.
Although some people don’t care for the look of fabric grow bags, there is plenty of variety out there to please most any eye. Most commonly, the fabric bags are black or green but if you look around you can find bags in various colors like red, blue, white, purple and more. There are individual pots, large divided containers and vertical hanging ones as well.
Small Composter
Yes, even in the city gardeners can make their own compost to fertilize their garden. Some of these compact composting systems can even be used indoors. Bokashi type compost systems can be used indoors and can digest meat, dairy and other materials not usually added to compost. Bokashi is an anaerobic process and uses a probiotic booster. Usually done in a container about the size of a 5 gallon bucket that can fit under the kitchen sink if needed. Try this system from All Seasons or the sleeker looking one from Exaco Trading. Remember to get the inoculant needed.
Vermicomposting is another excellent option for making great compost in a small space. Practically odorless you can keep your worms indoors with you all year around.
Many systems start small with a few trays and can be added to as needed. Include a gift certificate for the worms!
Vertical Planter System
Growing in small spaces like balconies means that going up is easier than going out. For more information about vertical planter systems, please see this post.
There are free standing stacking systems that can hold a lot of plants like those made by GreenStalk and Garden Tower. You can also look at wall mounted designs and other free standing vertical systems.
Don’t forget that balcony railings count for vertical space as well. There are grow bags and planters designed to fit over railings. While fabric grow bags easily adjust to different size railings, some plastic planters are adjustable but others are not. Also consider hanging pots which can be hung on railings, fences or lathe. Finally, hanging baskets, “upside down” planters and standard plant hangers are also good options for using vertical space.
Freestanding options shouldn’t be an issue but remember some urban gardeners cannot add hooks or screw anchors into walls.
Indoor Growing
Not enough sunlight on that little balcony? Try growing completely indoors.
The AeroGarden systems are very popular indoor growing options. These hydroponic planters with an overhead grow light allow indoor vegetable and herb production all year around. The new AeroGarden Bounty even is wi-fi enabled and lets Alexa help you keep the system going.
If the gardener you are buying for prefers to grow in soil, there are a variety of full spectrum lights available to promote indoor growth. Some are systems have timers to simulate the natural world. There are also freestanding, adjustable lights as well as hanging lights.
Mini Greenhouse
A mini greenhouse will take up very little of the precious space available to the urban gardener while still allowing for season extension and a plant nursery for seed starting.
A small four or five shelf system with a plastic cover can be a temporary greenhouse for use indoors or out. Designed to be temporary structures, most mini greenhouses of this design can be easily dismantled and stored when not needed. Clear PVC covers keep your seedlings toasty warm in the spring and have a zippered door for easy access and watering. Usually about 30 inches wide and 19 inches deep and around 63 inches tall, a few models are just a bit larger.
Moving up in size (and space required) there are walk in versions of portable greenhouses as well. Similar in construction and design to the shelf systems but providing 8 or so shelves plus some additional space. Big enough that the gardener can enjoy working in the warmth of the greenhouse as well. Sizes vary but plan on these walk in mini greenhouse to take up around five feet by five feet of space when assembled.
Small pop-up greenhouses can be handy as well and are very easy to store when not in use. Some models are so small that they would only cover a handful of plants or a couple seedling trays but others provide a bit more room.
Garden Tool Organizer
City gardeners rarely need a rake or a shovel but they still need garden tools and somewhere to keep them. Consider an organizer bag, with or without tools, a bucket organizer, or small stand.
Watering Aids
Growing in cities, on a balcony or patio may present problems getting water to your plants. Plants grown in containers often need more water that plants in the ground and that can pose difficulties if there is no water source near the plants. Its not very likely that an outdoor water spigot will be found on every apartment balcony.
First to consider is the classic watering can. Metal or plastic, look for one sized large enough to carry plenty of water but not so large as to cause difficulty carrying or storing. Consider getting one with a narrow spout instead of a rain type head, don’t want to be watering the neighbor’s balcony too. Also, a narrow spout makes it easy to fill self watering containers and spikes.
Squeeze water out of this bottle to reach hanging plants.
There are many slow release watering options as well. Pretty glass globes, decorative spikes and spikes that attach to water bottles.
Another option is a garden hose that attaches to a kitchen sink faucet. This type of hose can be used for watering indoor plants and is usually long enough to reach to an outside balcony as well. Consider adding in an adapter for the faucet as well for faster, easier attachment.
All-in-One
The all in one Vegepod. This is a raised bed planter has a self-watering container with attached greenhouse/pest screen. The Vegepod is available in three sizes to meet various needs.
Handmade Gifts for Gardeners: Crafts for Children
Crafts children can make to give to the gardener in their life. Both the gardener and the children will love to see these handmade gifts out in their garden.
Vertical Garden Systems
This post contains affiliate links. Please see my Disclaimer for more information. Vertical container gardening allows you to grow more in less space. In addition to saving space, some systems allow for water conservation, self fertilizing and other advantages. Going vertical also means easier access …
Fall Garden Plan
This post may contain affiliate links. See my full Disclosure here for more information.
I’m in the midst of planning my fall garden. Here in my US Zone 7a garden my first frost date is October 21. Using August 1 as a “start” date, that gives me 83 days before that first frost. Many cool weather crops will grow beyond that first frost date as well. Despite the given frost date, we actually rarely get a frost before November. I’m taking a small risk with some of the warmer weather plants but I don’t feel there is much of a downside to trying.
A Second Summer
I am actually starting a couple veggies that are usually considered summer crops: green beans, squash, tomatoes and cucumbers. Tomatoes? Have I lost my mind? Well, yes, but that is another story. Stick with me here for a few minutes and I’ll explain.
I am planting yellow Straightneck “summer” squash and Table Queen “winter” acorn squash. The Straightneck squash has a 45 day maturity so that gives me plenty of time to harvest before the first frost. The Table Queen is a bush variety. I’m cutting it close on this one, it has an 80 day maturity, but I started these in late July so I got a couple extra days in there.
The beans I’m planting are both bush varieties with 50-55 days to maturity. Calima Bush are “green” beans commonly called string beans, snap beans or French beans. We will also be planting Roma II variety. Since they are both bush beans, they should all mature fairly close together. These are good beans for canning and freezing so its actually handy that they all mature around the same time. I will probably do two plantings a couple weeks apart for a double round.
I will also be planting Tendergreen Burpless cucumbers. Like the beans, these have a 55 day maturity so I have plenty of time. This variety is good for pickling as well as fresh eating so we’ll put up any that we don’t eat fresh.
Finally the tomatoes. We are starting some Grappoli D’Iverno tomatoes. They have a 75 day maturity but I did start these in late July as well. This variety is known as the “winter grape” and is a storage type. The fruit does not actually mature on the vine, it matures after harvesting. In Italy, you can see these tied in ristras. They are hung in a cool place and stored for months. Not very flavorful for eating fresh, they develop a lovely sweet taste when dried, roasted or cooked into a sauce.
All of these “summer” crops are warm weather loving plants. Most, if not all, of them will die off with the first frost. If they work out we’ll have some lovely fresh summery produce in the fall. If they don’t work out we’ll have learned lessons for next year.
Leafy Greens
This is the time of year I grow salad greens. Its way too hot here during the summer to grow most greens, they bolt too quickly. I’ll start with Slo Bolt lettuce and Fordhook Giant Swiss Chard. I will succession plant over the next few weeks and will plant Buttercrunch and Red Romaine towards the end of August. I will follow up another succession planting of Buttercrunch and Red Romain a couple weeks later.
I will also be planting a lot of spinach as well. We put spinach in eggs, soups or just eat it with butter. Its a favorite for us but another green that doesn’t like the hot, humid summer heat. I will probably wait until late August or early September to get the spinach going.
Somewhere along the way I want to get some red vein sorrell going as well. Sorrell is actually a perennial in zones 6-10 but I haven’t started any yet.
I should be able to grow most of my greens under cover throughout the winter in a sunny location. Growth will slow in midwinter due to the shorter daylight hours. We will be doing “cut and come again” harvesting.
Root Veggies
Radishes are fast growing and I will do a few successions of them between now and the beginning of October. I’m not particularly fond of them but Mr. Gnome really likes them so I grow some for him.
I’ll also be starting a couple rounds of Scarlet Nantes carrots. These will also be succession planted with the earlier rounds harvested for canning or freezing. The later plantings will be left in the ground for “cold” storage. We’ll put a heavy layer of mulch over the top of the beds and harvest as needed.
I’m really late for parsnips but going to give some a try, not expecting it to work but I’ll interplant them with the radishes. They have a long maturity period of more than 100 days. However, I might have time and the roots taste better after a frost or two anyway.
Finally, well get some beets in as well.
Brassicas
The cold hardy garden friends everyone thinks of in a fall garden. We actually love all the brassicas. I’ll start all the brassicas inside to keep them out of the worst of the summer heat and humidity. They will get transplanted into the beds by the middle of September. We are planting kale, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, broccoli and bok choy.
What’s in Your Garden?
What can you grow before your first frost dates? What can you start now that will survive a few frosts? Can you get some plants to maturity and then under cover before the colder weather and shorter days. Find your frost date, count back to today’s date to find out what you can grow in the remaining time and get planting!!!
Fermenting and Pickling, What is the Difference?
Fermented versus Pickled Pickling and fermenting are closely related but the primary difference is the liquid used, vinegar or brine. Everything fermented is pickled but not everything pickled is fermented. Both processes result in preserving food using an acidic environment to kill off harmful bacteria. …
One-handed Garden Spade and Fork
This post contains affiliate links. Please read my Disclaimer for more information. A pitchfork can be very handy around the garden for spreading mulch and compost. However, pitchforks were designed for work around the farm, mostly pitching straw, removing animal bedding and waste, etc. A …
Tiny Seeds and How to Plant Them
This post contains affiliate links. See my full Disclosure for additional information.
Some veggies have the tiniest little seeds and sowing them can be challenging. Tomatoes, peppers, lettuce, carrots, celery, dill and others can be especially difficult. If you have any visual impairments finding some of those little buggers in the first place is tricky, much less determining if you have the seeds where you want them. Arthritis and other dexterity issues make picking up just a seed or two and placing them in the soil difficult as well.
Carrots are one of our favorite veggies but have you seen those tiny little seeds? Yeah me neither! Just kidding, I can see them just fine in the seed packet, its picking them up and spacing them that gets tricky.
Here are a few tips and tricks for dealing with those itsy, bitsy seeds.
High Contrast:
Make the seeds easier to see by working on a bright background. Pouring the seeds onto a small plate, cap or piece of white paper makes a nice contrast for dark seeds like dill, celery or carrot. Try a blue, green, red or black dish under light colored seeds like tomatoes, peppers and lettuce. If you are direct sewing your seeds into a garden bed, try placing a strip of toilet paper into your furrow before adding the seeds. The bright white will contrast nicely with dark seed and let you know where they are. Then cover with the recommended depth of soil. No need to remove the toilet paper, it will decompose quickly under there.
Pick-up Sticks:
Picking up just one or two tiny seeds can be frustrating. Try using the end of a wooden matchstick or a blunted toothpick or another small piece of wood. Dip the end into shallow dish of water then touch it to a seed. Place the seed into the compost by lightly scratching it against the surface of the soil or by gently scraping it off using another dry toothpick. This method can be slow and tedious but is very accurate. This works well for containers or seed trays when you can sit comfortably at a table to work, trying this while kneeling out in the garden can get uncomfortable. If you find it difficult to hold onto the toothpick try sticking the dry end into the cork from a wine bottle or some clay. A longer stick like a bamboo skewer might be easier to handle as well.
Seed Tape:
This is a favorite of mine. The seeds are spaced out before hand in a bit of paste inside a thin paper strip. You simply cut the length you need, place it into the furrow and cover with compost. Fast and easy.
Seed tapes can be purchased already made like these here. Or they are fairly simple to make yourself (see this article for a full tutorial). Making them yourself gives you a wider variety of options for what seeds you want to use, you are not confined to what is available. You can also make seed mats instead of tape if you are planting in containers or using square foot plantings and make them in custom sizes. Seed tapes can be prepared months in advance so its something you can do in the winter, sitting snug in your house with hot drink. Its a project kids love to help with too!
Mix and Shake:
Take a small amount of seeds and combine with clean sand and mix well. This separates the seeds from one another and the sand will help space them out when you disperse them. The sand and seed mixture can be placed into a salt shaker, small jar with holes in the lid or a paper cup with the top edge creased to make a small spout.
Seeding Tools:
I haven’t tried any of these myself so I can’t verify which is better than another but you can give them a try. Most common are a dial type sowers where you place all the seeds into the tray portion, adjust your dial to the seed size then shake as you go. Lots of mixed reviews on this type of seed sowing device, especially when talking about really small seeds.
Haven’t tried this one yet but its certainly on my wish list….Sow Perfect Seeder available here from Amazon.
Summer Corn Chowder
Sweet corn fresh from the cob is the star of the light chowder. Lovely to serve alongside some grilled chicken. Sure, chowder isn’t the first dish that comes to mind for the summer but using corn right off the stalk, fresh herbs and tomatoes gives …